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Wednesday, January 21, 2015

Taste the Adventure with C'est si Bon: Leek Tart

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As you may remember from last time (read part one here) we were just about to go into her kitchen at La Belle Gasconne to make Marie-Claude's amazing Tourte de Blanc de Poireaux from her book, La Cuisine de Passion.

Please join us! There are still a few spaces in Taste the Adventure this summer. 

Marie-Claude's tart uses a brisée dough for the crust. You may also see this called pate sale brisée. It is a French classic. Are you familiar with it? Marie-Claude says makes this statement in her book, La Cuisine de Passion, to convey the meaning of brisée.



C'est si Bon! Culinary Travel to Poudenas
La Belle Gasconne Kitchen, ready for action!

"Je ne veux pas marcher sur tes brises."

What could this mean, I asked my friend Aileen Randall, a Carrboro and Chapel Hill French teacher who has been co-leader of numerous Teen-Chefs in Provence, Paris and Tuscany trips with me. Aileen advised this can mean, “I don’t want to poach on your preserves. Or, it could possibly mean "I will not walk in your breezes."

My breezes?

Of course misunderstandings in French, in France, in the French kitchen and in life, are always possible. I accepted the approximation as I accept and admire Marie-Claude. In fact, I didn't need to hear a word for word explanation. I imagined it had to do with the respect of the countryside and so of course it meant that no one should go poach (hunt) on your hunting preserves. It didn't mean I couldn't poach a lovely shad from the Gelise River there or a even a chicken, in a rich pot full of carrottes and oignon and laurier you just harvested, if need be, just so long as the hunter was invited.

Marie-Claude in this case..was the grand chausser of the leek tart! the keeper of the tradition! And as a guest "Je ne veux pas marcher sur tes brises."

I didn't allow that I could be wrong. Horribly wrong. I might simply mean it was unacceptable to poach (steal) your apricot preserves. Or fig preserves. Cherry was another matter and they were up for poaching, grabs as we say here ~ which isn't that equally strange?

And so I will always remember the day when Marie-Claude came into the kitchen to see how we were coming along with the tart. I had invited her and her husband, Christian, to lunch -- which of course I was nervous about! On one hand it seemed rather brazen to invite Marie-Claude to lunch on one of her prized recettes - but then it also could have seemed brazen not to invite her when we were working in her kitchen trying to replicate her dish. Who better to tell us how it came out? GULP.

In Cuisine de Passion she says, "Me, I always prepare little tartlettes for my clients, but certainly in the family its better to prepare one big pretty tart. If you have company you can prepare many bite size tarts. As a “cocktail-snack” or an appetizer with an aperitif."

We were going with the one big pretty tart. In fact, it was a pretty big tart. We even found one of her tart pans to use.

"The dough must be soft. I smooth it out with the boxwood rolling pin of my great grandmother Aurelie which I take with me everywhere I travel, as my good luck charm."



C'est si Bon! Culinary Travel to Poudenas
Pate sale brisée


Ok, here we need to go back. On our first shopping trip to the Mezin Sunday Marche, we had a marvelous time. We dillied. We dallied. We met Michel, he being our guide, and the farmer of leeks, potatoes, potiron (pumpkin) and wood-turning. Come back for another post about our further adventures with Michel. He took our little group around the market. We took photos. 

"When the dough is smooth and as thin as possible, using the rolling pin I pass my hands under it and then I lightly lift till I can see my hands through it. I stretch it so thin so that I can see my hands through it. And then I put it in the bottom of the tart pan. And then I prick it with my fork. When the garniture (the filling) is in place I cover it with a dough that I try to stretch even more finely than the one underneath. The secret of my tourte is that as for the garnish, (the filling) it changes often, depending on the evening and the inspiration."

Marie-Claude took one look at our bowl of leeks, sitting in a bowl of water, and gently asked if we knew not to do that? Cooking the leeks - she took down the heaviest pan on the shelf with one arm and plopped it in place on the burner. She whooshed on the fire, and nestled the leeks in a towel and patted them dry. With nary a concern for her hands she moved the damp leeks to the hot pan where they sizzled, but no, actually they didn't - you just think they will. The leeks sat there and were quite patient to have a little time with the heat. As much time as Marie-Claude determined was necessary. She watched the poireaux with a fierce kind of love, fluffed them with her fingers. They began to steam..they turned a bright green, and then she removed them from the pan. Quickly and spread them out to cool. Then, she left us to finish the dish. "Je ne veux pas marcher sur tes brises."

So, did Marie-Claude ever taste our Leek Tart? Tune in next time. And Teens, join us in Gascony! to make another ...





C'est si Bon! Culinary Travel to Poudenas
Marie-Claude Gracia Rey, La Cuisine de Passion 

Tourte de Blanc de Poireaux
as translated from La Cuisine de Passion by Marie-Claude Gracia Rey

prep time, 1 hour. baking time 40 minutes.

for the pâte brisée salée – standard french short pastry dough

short pastry dough or pate brisee is unleavened and great for savory or sweet tarts, quiches or any other pie sort of knosh. the standard accepted ratio is ½ the amount of fat to flour.

300 grams of butter (1 cup 5 tablespoons)
10 grams of salt (1 teaspoon)
500 grams of all purpose flour (4 cups 2 tablespoons)
1 egg, beaten
125 grams of water (1/2 cup)

for the garniture - the filling
500 gms very white leeks
250 gms little pink mushrooms from the meadow or de champignons de paris
20 cl crème fraiche thick
1 egg

salt and white pepper

Make the pastry.
On a hard work surface - marble, granite or formica - place your flour and salt. mix with your fingers. cut the butter into tablespoon size pieces, and put with the dry ingredients. gently, use both hands and rub without squeezing the butter into the dry ingredients. you are aiming for a sandy texture with all the butter mixed into the dry ingredients, gently and surely. when the butter is well mixed in, with one hand, gently mix the butter/flour with the egg. with the other hand, pour some of the water over the mix and continue bringing the ingredients together. once all the ingredients are mixed together (you may or may not have used all the water), stop mixing and put aside the dough in the refrigerator to rest for about 30 minutes or longer if necessary and more convenient.

Rest the pastry

When it has rested sufficiently divide it into 2 unequal parts; 2/3 and 1/3 smooth out the biggest to the diameter of the tourtier, butter and flour the mold, the moule. garnish the bottom of the moule with the very thin dough. 

Prepare the garnish.

Peel the leeks only keep a drop of the green and then cut in fine julienne. If possible get yourself poireaux de vigne which adds to the impertinence, or possible the strength of the flavor. put them in a heavy pan skillet over average heat, with no water or anything in a way that will be at least 2 cm of poireaux. turn it with a wooden spoon or your fingers so that the humidity of the leeks on the bottom impregnante well those that are on the top. stop at about 6 minutes approximately, when they are still “craquants” and emerald green.

Besides, choose the little pink mushrooms of the meadow, the smallest ones, and the most “croquant” crunchy..the most closed..or by default those old mushrooms of paris. remove the peel and the stems. keep the mushroom caps that you minced them finely. especially don’t wash them. put a layer of the leeks and half a layer of the mushrooms on top of the raw dough. add crème fraiche very evenly over the leeks and the mushrooms, then salt and pepper. the filling must be light soft and delicate and rise to ¾ of the tarte pan. stretching the rest of the dough to cover the tart. now, with a whole egg, brush over the tart, turn it golden with a whole egg.

We’re going to put it in the oven, if your oven is not very aggressive let it cook for 35 minutes and if not then at 40 minutes. serve as is. Either as an entrée or after the foie gras with a dry white wine, a vin de Poudenas. (Colombard ou Ugni Blanc) or a light red wine, (from Duras or un Buzet.)

And don’t tell the men that there are leeks inside because the majority of them detest them. and if they don’t know there are poireaux in there they will feast in all innocence.


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